FabricIQ
Reading the label…
Needles
Nepenthes Special Zip Work Hoody - Black - PE/C Twill
C
57/100
01Verdict
Well-made, but rough on the environment.
Best for Buy once, keep for years to amortize the production hit.
Material C · 57Health D · 50Eco · 31Label · high
Why this material grade?
This product scored 57/100 on the material-quality rubric (durability, comfort, breathability, warmth, moisture-wicking, care-ease), based on its composition of 65% Polyester, 35% Cotton. Sustainability is scored separately as the Eco Rating. Blended from 65% Polyester, 35% Cotton — the score is a weighted average based on each material's proportion.
C (55-69): Average material composition — typical blend, reasonable for everyday wear.
Average quality, high synthetic content
Decent for everyday wear, but the synthetic content means microplastic shedding and it won't biodegrade. Consider natural alternatives for your next purchase.
02Breakdown
Composition
65% Polyester, 35% Cotton
Mixed blend — natural + synthetic
Added Apr 7, 2026 · Data last updated Apr 7, 2026
Sustainability is scored separately — see the Eco Rating below.
🔬
Every wash of synthetic fabric releases up to 700,000 microplastic fibers into waterways. Use a Guppyfriend bag to catch them.
🌍
This fabric will take 200+ years to decompose. That means a shirt you buy today will still exist in the year 2226.
⚠️
Synthetic fabrics can contain BPA, which mimics estrogen. Studies have found BPA transferring to skin through sweat contact.
03Network
Cost per wear
rough estimate$6.55/wear · 100 expected wears
Premium price — wear-it-often math
How we got there
Base for SS26, FW25, Mens, needles, NNY Japan SS26 Delivery 1, NPNY, NLA Japan SS26 Delivery 1, NPLA, Coats & Jackets: 100 expected wears.
× 1.00 for Polyester (mid-durability fiber, durability 76).
= 100 expected wears. $655 ÷ 100 ≈ $6.55/wear.
Missing GSM — this is a category-level estimate, not garment-specific. Expect ±30% variance.
Real life is messier than a formula: how often you wash, how you wash, whether you wear it inside-out, dry on low — all of it shifts the number. This is the ceiling under reasonable care.
Care Guide
Decode symbolsWash
warm (40°C)
Bleach
Do not bleach
Dry
tumble low
Best For
👔Formal/Office
GoodGood durability (76) and comfort (57) for office wear
04Tradeoffs
Health Impact
Microplastic shedding · skin-contact synthetic load · likely chemical treatments
D50/100
High health impact — significant synthetic content or likely chemical treatments. For frequent skin-contact wear, consider a natural-fiber alternative.
Microplastics HIGH
700,000 fibers/wash
Skin contact HIGH
65% synthetic
Chemicals LOW
Antimony
- Antimony (trace): Virgin polyester contains trace antimony from PET production. Recycled polyester reduces but does not eliminate it.
65% synthetic (primarily polyester). High microplastic shedding risk. Every wash releases hundreds of thousands of plastic fibers into waterways.
$655 for a fabric that's 65% synthetic (plastic-based).
Biodegradability
Not BiodegradableMaterials will persist in the environment for decades.
What this score doesn't measure
- ×Fiber grade. Staple length, micronaire, strength. "100% cotton" could be short-staple upland or long-staple Pima — same label, very different fabric.
- ×Yarn processing. Singles count, ply (single vs two-ply), spinning method (open-end vs ring-spun vs compact), mercerization. Invisible from any label.
- ×Knit / weave structure. Single jersey vs interlock, knit tightness. A loose knit pills; a tight knit lasts.
- ×Fabric weight (GSM). One construction signal among several — and high GSM can come from loose cheap yarn just as easily as from fine tight yarn. We have it for blank manufacturers, rarely for retail.
- ×Pre-shrink processing. Sanforized cotton shrinks ~1%; non-sanforized can shrink up to 10%. Not visible from the composition tag.
- ×Construction quality. Stitch density (SPI), seam types, collar geometry, manufacturing tolerances (AQL). These often matter more than the fiber itself.
- ×Specific chemical loads. Health Impact flags "likely PFAS / possible formaldehyde" from composition × category — we don't lab-test individual SKUs.
We rate the fabric, not the garment. Composition is the floor of what you're guaranteed to be getting — most shoppers don't have that.
05Action